Bergamo
Bergamo has a wealth of medieval, Renaissance and baroque architecture and lies just to the north east of Milan. There are two very distinct parts to Bergamo: the Città Alta (Upper Town) is the historic centre, while the Città Bassa comprises modern buildings and wide, busy streets. Bergamo was under Venetian rule for over 350 years until the arrival of Napoleon into Italy. There are architectural reminders of Venice’s long reign dotted around the town, not least the 6 km of imposing walls built to protect the upper city from enemy attacks. Its proximity to Milan makes for an easy day trip from there, but we have chosen intriguing Bergamo as the starting point for our Northern Lombardy tour. Our group will have a private guided tour of the Piazza Vecchia, Colleoni Chapel and the Civic Tower, so here we have selected some additional highlights for your visit to Bergamo. In 2023 Bergamo and neighbouring Brescia were the joint Italian Capitals of Culture.
Highlights
The Funicular
The city Funicular links the Città Bassa with the Città Alta and was first built in 1887. It climbs a height of 85 metres and offers great views. It crosses the Venetian Walls and is an experience not to be missed. There is a second Funicular which joins the Città Alta with Bergamo’s highest hill, known as the San Vigilio Funicular. This is a great starting point for walks within the wonderful Parco dei Colli, a protected green area of around 4,700 hectares.
Walk the Walls
The Venetian walls were officially listed a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2017. It’s a pleasant walk, offering great views and an insight into the defences of the city. On a clear day you can see all the way to the sky scapers of Milan. There are official tours of the walls if you prefer to walk with a guide.
Piazza Vecchia
This is the historic heart of the town and home to the imposing Campanone Bell Tower, which was rung 100 times at 10.00 pm to signify the closing of the gates of the city. Tucked behind this square is the Piazza del Duomo, where you will find the city cathedral, the Renaissance Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, the Cappella Colleoni and the Baptistry.
Accademia Carrara
This art gallery lies just to the east of the city walls and houses an exceptional range of Italian masters. It was founded in 1780 and today contains an enormous collection. You can admire works by Raphael, Botticelli, Canaletto and Titian amongst many others. The gallery can be reached on foot via the Porta di Sant’Agostino and Via della Noca.
Botanical Garden
Encompassing 2,400 square meters, the Orto Botanico is home to more than 1,200 species, planted in micro-habitats that reproduce natural environments. It can only be reached on foot, walking up a flight of 141 steps, and offers views over the rooftops and monuments of the Citta Alta and the Bergamo foothills.
To discover more about neighbouring Brescia, take a look at our Blog.
Where to stay
Best Western Hotel Cappello d’Oro
This is the pick-up hotel for our Northern Lombardy tour and is in the lower part of the town which makes it easy for vehicular access. Much of the historic centre is within a ZTL – or restricted traffic zone.
Il Sole
A popular hotel with 10 rooms located in the heart of the city on Piazza Vecchia, less than 100 meters from the Cathedral, the Santa Maria Maggiore Church and the Colleoni Chapel. It has a lively restaurant too, one of the oldest in the Città Alta.
Gombit Hotel
Located in a medieval square in the Città Alta, this 13th century property is part of the history of Bergamo. Minimal rooms with neutral palettes create a modern, organic look using natural materials. Sculptures and quirky accents like a library ceiling clad in books inject colour. A regional breakfast is served.
Locanda Mimmo
An historic inn dating back to 1357, in the heart of Bergamo’s Città Alta. Elegantly restored, featuring refined Italian decor with designer furnishings and local textiles. Guests can enjoy a fantastic continental breakfast and some rooms offer a self-catering kitchen.
Relais da Vittorio
A famous multi-award winning restaurant with boutique rooms, but outside of town, about 15 km to the east. Da Vittorio restaurant ranks as one of the best in Italy and has been in the family for generations. Boutique rooms and suites have elegant furnishings. Excellent food, swimming pool and gardens, and a haven for foodies.
Where to eat
€€Da Mimmo
This is a historic Slow Food restaurant in Città Alta, established in 1956 by Mimmo Amaddeo and his wife Lina. Simple and authentic cuisine, respectful of the rhythms of the seasons and nature. Via Bartolomeo Colleoni, 17 Tel: +39 035 218535
€€Antica Osteria del Vino Buono
Cosy, vaulted restaurant serving specialities of the Lombardy region. Via Gaetano Donizetti Tel: +39 035 247993
€€Il Circolino
This restaurant used to be a monastery, but today has a contemporary interior including a bar, café, and pizzeria service. They cook with typical Bergamo flavours using locally sourced ingredients. Vicolo Sant’Agata, 19 Tel: (+39) 035 218568
€€Enoteca Al Donizetti
Named after the composer who was born in Bergamo, this Enoteca has a legendary bar with 500 labels of spirits and a cellar with more than 1,500 wines to choose from. The menu offers cured meats, pasta courses, meat and polenta options. Via Gombito 17, Tel: +39 035 242661
What to order
Polenta and risottos are favourites for the residents of Lombardy and the menus in Bergamo will have plenty to choose from. Cured and roasted meats will feature too. Unique to Bergamo are “Polenta e osei”, small round cakes filled with jam and cream and covered with icing and chocolate birds. From the grazing lands and pastures around Bergamo come 9 DOP cheeses, so look out for favourites such as Taleggio, Grana Padano, Gorgonzola and Bitto Storico. Bergamo is also the birthplace of Stracciatella gelato, a white ice-cream studded with shards of melted dark chocolate.
Perhaps the best-known wines from Lombardy are the sparkling whites from Franciacorta, the Lugana whites and the rich reds from the Valtellina made from Nebbiolo grapes. Close to Bergamo is the Valcalepio DOC which makes reds from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends, and whites based on Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio.
Transport
Milan Bergamo International Airport, just 5 kilometers from the city, is an international airport with more than 130 connected destinations. From the airport, a shuttle bus leaves every fifteen minutes to the city center.
Bergamo is directly connected with Milan by train and travel time from Milan is about 50 minutes. The city’s FS train station is located in Piazzale Guglielmo Marconi in Città Bassa, the lower part of the town. An ATB bus (Line 1) departs from the train station every ten minutes to the lower station of the funicular railway to connect passengers to the Città Alta or historic centre.
For all train information visit www.trenitalia.com which has an English version.
Train travel in Italy is inexpensive and comfortable. Major cities are served by non-stop fast trains known as the Eurostar.
If you are making plans for wider Europe then www.raileurope.com is a useful site. Another highly recommended train travel website is Seat 61.
Italo
NTV (Nuovo Trasporto Viaggiatori) is a new private company which started operating it’s Italo high-speed trains on the Milan-Florence-Rome-Naples route in April 2012, in competition with State-owned operator Trenitalia. NTV have added new routes subsequently and are Europe’s first private high-speed train operator, with a real emphasis on customer service. Travellers should be aware that the city stations used are not always the same as those used by Trenitalia.
GoOpti is a car transfer service which can been booked in advance and has come recommended by many Hedonistic Hikers. It connects airports and major cities in the north of Italy with eachother and fixed destinations in Austria, Croatia, Germany, Hungary, Slovakia and Slovenia. See the website for more details. Another useful car transfer website which has been recommended by HH guests is mydaytrip which can arrange private cars to and from most European cities.